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Old 1st August 2016, 05:02 AM
SteveC200 SteveC200 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Member of: Iceni Marksmen
Location: Colchester
Posts: 121

Originally Posted by Ewan View Post
That's a really good idea Steve, my ranging is pretty good now & my lad's is getting better the more he shoots now. What about if he laser ranges the target first then takes the shot, I understand that other members will help & call the ranges but this way we are not 'imposing' on other shooters (for now at least).

As we only shoot FT & HFT I guess a ranger that goes to 100 yards (ish) would do IF this sounds like a good idea ?
Sounds like a plan but for the cost of a decent range finder you could cover a fair chunk of a scope capable of range finding.
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Old 1st August 2016, 05:46 AM
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Ewan Ewan is offline
Join Date: Sep 2015
Member of: Iden Ferns
Location: Hastings
Posts: 89

Originally Posted by Keith t View Post
Hi Ewan,

I didn't mean he must not do the positional targets, just don't worry about them as much. Easier to get say 70% of the sitting targets than 70% of the positionals.
In SA, it is illegal to use an electronic rangefinder and I would assume same rules apply there.

Examples of the alternative siting positions I mentioned

Under the knee hold:

Right hand picture = 'Deadmans'
Laser for practice only not comps

Steve looks like a few things to think about then practice being the main thing.
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Old 1st August 2016, 11:42 AM
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C.Eaton C.Eaton is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Member of: ETL / TEGC
Location: Hockley, UK
Posts: 431

Ewan, if your Son's scope has some lines or dots then it's perfectly fine to range-find using the bracketing method.
In short, the gap between the target hinge and the centre of the kill is the same distance regardless of wether it's a pigeon, rat or rabbit.
Some people try and use the kill to bracket, this is a mistake as it is too small, hinge to centre of kill is bigger so less prone to error.

This allows a shooter to use this constant to 'bracket' using lines in the scope and work out the distance.
All you need to do is get hold of a standard target and tape, put the target out at the usual distances i.e. 30-55yds and try and find a zoom setting that allows you to bracket.

Sounds complicated but in practice once you know that say from the centre of the reticle to three mil-dots down is 50yds then it's easy to see that 2.5mildots will be 55yds, 4 mildots will be 45yds etc.
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