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Old 23rd April 2014, 07:39 PM
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Default Leup Comp 40x questions - new owner

Just got a new-to-me Leupold Competition 40x. Before I start using it or send it off to the custom shop...had some questions.

1. Seems there are gripes about the Torx screws and resetting the zero. Has to be done just right or the turret spins but doesn't click or vice versa. Any tips for adjusting and setting the turrets properly? Some people apparently remove some kind of spring too??

2. Minimum focus distance. I plan to test what it comes down to out of the box but any advice on what to have it changed to (if anything) at the custom shop? Or should I just use a close focus adapter and not alter anything?

3. Reticle - I'm armed with evidence for a mil-dot or TMR reticle. Apparently they have some new tooling and they will now install these again. Is it worth the bother or just have them do a wide duplex?

4. Sidewheel - consensus seems to be 3"-4" in size?

5. How many folks use a sunshade?

6. On the close focus adapters - is mounting in Butler Creek the easiest way to go? If so, can you provide a link to the correct Butler Creek and close focus adapter?

7. Any other tips/tricks for getting the most out of these.

It's my first semi-high end scope so I'm excited to try it out. Don't know if I will get on with fixed mag but so many seem to do well with it that I had to try. It should work great for bench rest too. I sold my Mk1 big Nikko as I don't want to have to worry about possible warranty issues and I like the lighter scope.

-Casey
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Old 23rd April 2014, 08:20 PM
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1) Not sure on that Casey. Have not heard of folks doing that and have never done it myself. There is a grommet that lines up with the internal turret and the torx screw goes into it. If the grommet is not lined up you will rotate the internal turret without moving the external turret. Just make sure that when you zero the turret, everything is lined up before you tighten it down. It's not too hard, but easy to messup if you're not paying attention.

2) I reparallaxed my 40x (35x was already done) . I know Tim at Mac1 has the proper tooling to mess with the lens and locking ring now. Ken Hughes did it for me. Close focus adapter works fine, mine focused down to 13 before I redid it.

3) MSG me and tell me more!!!!! RIGHT NOW!!! LOL. I would get the mil dot personally, TMR is kinda thin. The wide plex is okay but would way rather have a dot.

4) I have a 4" and 4.5". I prefer the 4". 4.5" actually spreads things out too much so it becomes harder to differentiate distance, especially on the 35x. The 4" on my 40X is really good. I know a lot of the UK and other European's use wheels even smaller, but they don't necessarily mark every distance.

5) Have one on my 35x, not on my 40x. Will be getting one for the 40x pretty soon.

6) Yes it is easiest. Don't remember what number it is. If you have an old 44mm UTG front scope cover, they are a bit bulkier than the bulter creeks and handle the added weight of the lens better IMO.

7) I really prefer the reparallaxing vs the close focus adapter. Mine tops out at about 65 yards but goes down to roughly 9 yards. On a smaller wheel, gives you plenty of space between 50 and 55. Assuming the mil dot replacement isn't too much more than the plex, get it and don't look back! And if you decide you hate it, at least you know you have a buyer

Last edited by TP412; 23rd April 2014 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 23rd April 2014, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TP412 View Post
1) Not sure on that Casey. Have not heard of folks doing that and have never done it myself. Just make sure that when you zero the turret, everything is lined up before you tighten it down. It's not too hard, but easy to messup if you're not paying attention.

2) I reparallaxed my 40x (35x was already done) . I know Tim at Mac1 has the proper tooling to mess with the lens and locking ring now. Ken Hughes did it for me. Close focus adapter works fine, mine focused down to 13 before I redid it.

3) MSG me and tell me more!!!!! RIGHT NOW!!! LOL. I would get the mil dot personally, TMR is kinda thin. The wide plex is okay but would way rather have a dot.

4) I have a 4" and 4.5". I prefer the 4". 4.5" actually spreads things out too much so it becomes harder to differentiate distance, especially on the 35x. The 4" on my 40X is really good. I know a lot of the UK and other European's use wheels even smaller, but they don't necessarily mark every distance.

5) Have one on my 35x, not on my 40x. Will be getting one for the 40x pretty soon.

6) Yes it is easiest. Don't remember what number it is. If you have an old 44mm UTG front scope cover, they are a bit bulkier than the bulter creeks and handle the added weight of the lens better IMO.

7) I really prefer the reparallaxing vs the close focus adapter. Mine tops out at about 65 yards but goes down to roughly 9 yards. On a smaller wheel, gives you plenty of space between 50 and 55. Assuming the mil dot replacement isn't too much more than the plex, get it and don't look back! And if you decide you hate it, at least you know you have a buyer
Thanks Tyler - PM on the way.
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Old 23rd April 2014, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDplinker View Post
Just got a new-to-me Leupold Competition 40x. Before I start using it or send it off to the custom shop...had some questions.

1. Seems there are gripes about the Torx screws and resetting the zero. Has to be done just right or the turret spins but doesn't click or vice versa. Any tips for adjusting and setting the turrets properly? Some people apparently remove some kind of spring too??

2. Minimum focus distance. I plan to test what it comes down to out of the box but any advice on what to have it changed to (if anything) at the custom shop? Or should I just use a close focus adapter and not alter anything?

3. Reticle - I'm armed with evidence for a mil-dot or TMR reticle. Apparently they have some new tooling and they will now install these again. Is it worth the bother or just have them do a wide duplex?

4. Sidewheel - consensus seems to be 3"-4" in size?

5. How many folks use a sunshade?

6. On the close focus adapters - is mounting in Butler Creek the easiest way to go? If so, can you provide a link to the correct Butler Creek and close focus adapter?

7. Any other tips/tricks for getting the most out of these.

It's my first semi-high end scope so I'm excited to try it out. Don't know if I will get on with fixed mag but so many seem to do well with it that I had to try. It should work great for bench rest too. I sold my Mk1 big Nikko as I don't want to have to worry about possible warranty issues and I like the lighter scope.

-Casey
Hi Casey, I remove the spring under the elevation turret , never had a problem resetting it.

Re focus close distance to 10yds which is what all 4 of mine come down to.

Go with the Mildot, all 4 of mine have Mildot rets in them, lots of reference points and bracketing is possible on known kill sizes.

The smaller the better, go as small as 65mm if you can handle it.

All mine have the large sunshade. Don't shoot in bright conditions without one.

Don't give up too quickly, I've known people have them for very short periods of time before getting rid of them. Give it time and only parallax one way, I only go away from me, of towards the objective with the sidewheel, I never try to find the middle ground with them. Use it all different conditions. Have fun, and enjoy your new scope. Neil.
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Old 24th April 2014, 10:06 AM
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Hi Casey

I can't offer a wealth of experience as I've just got a comp 40x to replace a Big Nikko Mk1, so I'm about 3 weeks ahead of you.

I got a 4" wheel but if I was doing it again I'd go smaller, I see lots of 3" wheels and now I know why. The gap between 50 and 55 is bigger than the Nikko and on a 4" you could easily mark every yard if you wanted to, a 3" might be a bit of a squeeze but is probably achievable. You don't need to worry about small wheels.

9 years of 'see-sawing' into focus with the Nikko is a bad habit I need to break PDQ, you do need to come in from the same direction each time or face the consequences on the long ones! Focus is no worse than the Nikko, just different.

Sunshade by default. I don't know if it needs one but I'd rather not find out it does half way around a course for the sake of a few dollars.

Mine comes down to a little under 11 yards, the adaptor brings it down to a mega sharp 7. Advice obtained here (based mainly on Leupold Germany advice) suggested not to reparallax it.

Butler creek #39 for the scope and #30 for the close focus. I got mine new so just got the post 2004 adapter and put a 38mm hole in the butler creek and used sandpaper on a dowel to open it out enough to be able to cut a very tight thread with the adaptor. I've seen some where the lens has been removed from the 40mm shroud and is held in place by a very tidy looking housing, it looks a bit like a porthole. No idea where they got them from though. I'm not sure if there is any real difference between pre and post 2004 versions other than potentially the thread, but the post 2004 was in stock so just paid a few dollars more for the newer version.

Need to sort out the ret, probably will end up with the duplex post, not dissimilar to the Nikko NATO ret which I really like. I've never liked mildots, but appreciate it would give me additional aim points for close ones, so it's a personal thing for me as the general consensus is in favour of mildots. I suspect mildots would make it much easier to sell on if you didn't get on with it.

Hope that helps

Monty
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  #6  
Old 24th April 2014, 02:43 PM
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Default 50ft adapter

All of mine are like this. The 50ft adapter lens has been removed from the original and mounted in a butler creek flip up with a threaded ring on the inside of the butler creek to hold it into place. Mick Tromans did mine, but sure there are more guys out there doing this mod.
Neil.
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Walther Dommie MT Titanium. Leupold Competiotion 40 mag
The Dark Destroyer. TX200 MK3. Leupold Competition 40 mag.
Pink panther. TX 200 MK3. Leupold Competition 40 mag.
http://www.farcoleyftc.co.uk/#
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Old 24th April 2014, 02:47 PM
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Default Sidewheel

Just to reiterate the sense in having a smaller sidewheel. This one is 65mm and still has a 12mm gap between 50 and 55yds. So I could go even smaller. I will get my friend to make me a 55mm to see how it performs. The smaller the sidewheel the better it will snap into focus...thus eliminating to a degree...parallax error.

Neil.
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Walther Dommie MT Titanium. Leupold Competiotion 40 mag
The Dark Destroyer. TX200 MK3. Leupold Competition 40 mag.
Pink panther. TX 200 MK3. Leupold Competition 40 mag.
http://www.farcoleyftc.co.uk/#

Last edited by Neil-T; 24th April 2014 at 02:47 PM. Reason: Photo
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Old 24th April 2014, 02:48 PM
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Default Photo of sidewheel

65mm sidewheel.

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Walther Dommie MT Titanium. Leupold Competiotion 40 mag
The Dark Destroyer. TX200 MK3. Leupold Competition 40 mag.
Pink panther. TX 200 MK3. Leupold Competition 40 mag.
http://www.farcoleyftc.co.uk/#
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Old 25th April 2014, 03:41 PM
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Default This is truly helpful

Thanks for the comprehensive replies!
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Old 12th September 2016, 06:38 AM
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[QUOTE=SDplinker;161757]Just got a new-to-me Leupold Competition 40x. Before I start using it or send it off to the custom shop...had some questions.

1. Seems there are gripes about the Torx screws and resetting the zero. Has to be done just right or the turret spins but doesn't click or vice versa. Any tips for adjusting and setting the turrets properly? Some people apparently remove some kind of spring too??

Hello,
Same problem with Casey.After zeroing the scope I removed elevation turret for re-set but I didn't mount again.Any tips,advice?

Thanks
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