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Old 3rd June 2013, 01:10 PM
neilL neilL is offline
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Originally Posted by Jon View Post
Correct Dave the RN10 and EV2 are same triggers and two stage.

Its safer having a two stage and harder to make.
Anything will do for a single stage trigger as the sear edges are permanently set there - bang the butt.
I think we are only talking semantics here but the AA S400 has a 2-stage trigger and quoting from them
"The S400/410 rifles have a true two stage trigger mechanism. This means that as the trigger is pulled the bottom sear gradually disengages with the top sear until the two disengage completely and the rifle goes off. If the pressure on the trigger is released at any point before full disengagement, the bottom sear will automatically return back to full engagement. This type of trigger allows very fine but safe operation because it is the release of the 2nd stage that actually makes the rifle fire. This arrangement is vastly superior to pseudo two stage triggers where the first stage is just a pivoting trigger blade that does not move sears. The down side is that they are more difficult to adjust correctly."

The Pro-Target/EV2 mechanism is their pseudo 2-stage type i.e. the 1st stage adjustment controls the amount of travel before the pivot starts to press down on the sear pivot arm. (I have had EV2 and Pro-target both go off with a bump of the butt (and of course never cock/load unless it is pointed down range) but that can be eased by adjusting the trigger correctly) The cocking motion pulls the hammer back and that ramp shape motion forces the sear down which sometimes isn't quite far enough down to make it safe - or it is worn and needs replacing (sear that is). As far as I can recall there is no spring pressure in 1st stage i.e. the trigger is just pivoting freely until it engages with the 2nd stage. Sorry but it is very hard to describe and I no longer have examples to refer to or photograph.

So I think the 400 type is far safer for a hunting scenario but for pure target use the pseudo 2-stage is fine but they really make the 'never point the rifle anywhere but down (range)' advice an absolute.

I haven't looked at the schematics for LG300s or Anschutz-en but I am fairly sure they have a 1st-stage spring pressure but even then I have had both go off on early trigger contact but rather rarely and never (so far) with a slap of the butt - not the sort of thing you do in practice! There is possibly an argument that could be made between FT and HFT styles as far as this goes but even if I load an LG300 and then raise it to position (e.g. where the lane is at an angle to the rest of the course rather than all in a line) I flip the lever up so that it cannot fire - but then sometimes forget and have an embarrassing time when nothing happens and I have to re-cock and settle on target again :-( All common sense but better to assume the darn things will go off unexpectedly and keep them pointed down range. At least we don't have to worry about misfires and sit waiting for a minute with the muzzle pointed down-range whilst shouting for a range officer :-)

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Old 3rd June 2013, 01:14 PM
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JTK JTK is offline
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I had my EV's trigger open and am 99.999999% sure it is proper two stage. The Steyr I am 100% is not. Have had mine open enough time to know..
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Old 3rd June 2013, 02:18 PM
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Tye Tye is offline
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FWB are great also I shot Matt Hirst Anshultz the trigger was superb. I must say the LGV trigger is awesome aswell best on a springer.
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Old 3rd June 2013, 02:25 PM
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Have seen some very poor Ev2 triggers, one (out of the box) would have given Zebadee a run it was so springy!

However, when set up propoerly you get a superb crisp 2 stage trigger.I cant do it, But my gunsmith can
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Old 3rd June 2013, 02:36 PM
CameronWilson CameronWilson is offline
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Seems like FWB are winning?
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Old 3rd June 2013, 02:54 PM
neilL neilL is offline
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I found a nice graphic which illustrates the Anschutz trigger setup. The "Sear Engagment" is the most important thing and compare the 'cocked' and "at second stage" small images of the sear points.

Sorry for the confusion - 1st stage is basically taking up the slack before getting to the nitty gritty of the 2nd stage i.e. sear release. Some mechs have 1st stage spring loads and travel adjustments, some are just movement.

The thing you have to ask yourself is that once you are at 2nd stage and have applied any pressure is "has the sear moved?" and "if I remove pressure does the sear mechanism return to 1st stage?" or is the sear engagement reduced and therefore more likely to go off before you expect it to.

The AA 400 trigger tries to take you back to the safe pre-1st stage, I think. I haven't got one anymore so can't be sure.

Some folk remove 1st stage and just rely on a higher spring pressure and hopefully longer sear engagement.

Sears do wear though :-)

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Old 23rd June 2013, 05:24 PM
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NitroGary0 NitroGary0 is offline
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Probably the best trigger I use is the one on my Walther LGV, very light and super crisp on release. The worst, was probably the one on my old SMK XS38, but Lyn Lewington did his witchcraft and it was brilliant for a single stage trigger, very light and super predictable
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Old 23rd June 2013, 05:32 PM
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w-v-m w-v-m is offline
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Originally Posted by TOOL View Post
This is by far the best Trigger I've seen in action
I prefer this one
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Old 2nd July 2013, 10:29 PM
Sammo Sammo is offline
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Default Safe is best

A true, 2 stage trigger when properly set up will

Never ever be able to go off accidently
Will move the sear on the first stage, ready for shot release
Will not be spongy
Will not have creep
Will be crisp and definite
Will be consistent
Will be infinitely adjustable

In no particular order The best I have used are
Anschutz 2002
Feinwerkbau P800
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Old 2nd July 2013, 11:58 PM
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Deadlydad Deadlydad is offline
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