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  #1  
Old 16th July 2013, 03:58 PM
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Default What to look for in a 4 year old LG 110

I am a newby so HI ALL and like all newbies have a question.

I am looking at buying a 4 year old Steyr LG 110 FT (pre the new 2011) which is a UK import

Hence would welcome any advice in what to look for.

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 16th July 2013, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tennyson View Post
I am a newby so HI ALL and like all newbies have a question.

I am looking at buying a 4 year old Steyr LG 110 FT (pre the new 2011) which is a UK import

Hence would welcome any advice in what to look for.

Thanks
The best advice is to shoot it through 2 fills of the cylinder to see how it groups and whether there are any POI changes through the fills. Check for a sticking cocking lever as a new lever and roller bearing with be over 50 quid to replace. check for any fliers with the owners recommended pellets.

of course that's if you're not distance buying.
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Old 17th July 2013, 05:01 PM
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Thanks Chrisc,

Sadly I could not do any of what you recommended, I bought it from a shop who had no interest in it. There was no adapter to fill the air bottle nor anything else to go with it, just the base rifle, so I have taken a chance on it....gulp

The transfer port is not black or gold it is silver. Do you know what pressure that would be?
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Old 17th July 2013, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Tennyson View Post
Thanks Chrisc,

Sadly I could not do any of what you recommended, I bought it from a shop who had no interest in it. There was no adapter to fill the air bottle nor anything else to go with it, just the base rifle, so I have taken a chance on it....gulp

The transfer port is not black or gold it is silver. Do you know what pressure that would be?
The Silver transfer port is the idiot fix from Steyr to stop the external power adjuster rifles from going over the limit. It makes the rifle very inefficient. You should swap that out for the black port as soon as possible. fill pressure should be approx 190 bar and then see how she groups. If you have any problems or questions then drop me an email or pm and i'll help as much as i can. I do have access to Steyr parts as i have a house in Holland and can get anything you need if there are problems with the rifle. Don't worry as most of the common probs on a Steyr are fairly easy (and cheap) to fix. Steyr's are easy to work on but can sometimes be a bit of a sod to track down the odd problem.
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Old 17th July 2013, 07:16 PM
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Thanks again Chrisc, now ordered black transfer port and fill adapter so hopefully parts will arrive before the weekend.

The date on the air cylinder is 07/2010 so just around three old!

I have a couple of more questions, if you don't mind:-

How do you remove light marks/scratches from the the main body which is polished aluminium ?

Would you recommend a rail or mountings for scope?
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Old 18th July 2013, 12:26 AM
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Thanks again Chrisc, now ordered black transfer port and fill adapter so hopefully parts will arrive before the weekend.

The date on the air cylinder is 07/2010 so just around three old!

I have a couple of more questions, if you don't mind:-

How do you remove light marks/scratches from the the main body which is polished aluminium ?

Would you recommend a rail or mountings for scope?

Congrats on your Steyr purchase and best of luck with it! I have one as well. I got Jon Harris to make a rail for mine and I couldn't be more pleased with it. I highly recommend that you add a nice beefy rail to mount your scope on. I use a Leupold Competition 35x and my rail has 16 MOA of angle built in. That optically centers the scope well.

No need to worry about too much otherwise. Steyr's are easy to work on and parts are readily available.

Enjoy!

Harold Rushton
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Old 18th July 2013, 02:29 AM
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Sensible things to do include rotating/indexing the barrel so it does not touch the front A frame. Buy the replacement velocity adjuster/hammer/spring/regulator kit. Buy the replacement cocking lever/roller bearing kit.

The sticking sidelever/stiff stabiliser housing problem is solved with the replacement kit. It is due to wear of the cocking arm track and a gouge wearing in the solid post. Only a problem in older models that do not have the roller bearing standard.

The biggest problem of POI shift comes from the regulator itself. Buying a replacement reg, and installing at the first sign of shift alleviates that. Get the spare reg competently serviced so you have a spare for when after about 3-4 years it goes west again.

After chasing the shift dragon since late 2009, trying all advice, finally replacing the reg as a last resort
solved it earlier this year. Worth an extra 5 points a match.
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  #8  
Old 18th July 2013, 04:41 AM
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Default Cocking lever roller

Is this part #44?

http://www.benke-sport.de/online/tem...r+LG110+FT.pdf

Does #156 need replacement too?

Thanks,
Casey
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  #9  
Old 18th July 2013, 05:54 AM
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Is this part #44?

http://www.benke-sport.de/online/tem...r+LG110+FT.pdf

Does #156 need replacement too?

Thanks,
Casey
Yes casey. it's best to replace both the lever and the roller bearing assy at the same time.
#44
#156
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  #10  
Old 25th July 2013, 08:24 AM
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Thanks for all the valued information. Following Chrisc advise I bought a Chrony F1and tested the it.

Glup... bottom line is I guess I need a new Pressure Regulator.

Does anyone have one for sale or can anyone direct me to where I can buy a new?

Thanks.
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