Originally Posted by skires
I always enjoy reading your posts and appreciate your advice.
Re zeroing at your set PA...
I agree as it seem sensible ... but can you zero at 25 yards where you know your poi is at that range?
So set PA to 25. Then put paper out at that distance and 'zero' so that pellets are hitting 0.5 mil dot high. The actual cross hair poi is 35 ( or whatever it is for your set up ). So you have a 35 yard 'zero' but the 'zero' was actually set up in focus with the pa at 25.
Or do you mean actually have a 25 yard zero with pellets hitting the cross hairs at this point.
To be honest, these days it doesn't really matter what range your crosshairs are zeroed at like you say.
In the days before multi-aimpoint rets were common and you only really had the crosshairs and perhaps a thick post of a 30/30 ret as aimpoints then zero range might have been more of an issue.
These days with map, SCB, 1/2 mildot, SR etc etc rets, you've got so many aimpoints to choose from it's more a case of picking a crosshair zero range that gives the easiest to remember holdovers for the other aimpoints.
I do think it makes a lot of sense to zero (to whichever aimpoint you like) at the range your scope's parallaxed to. For the simple reason that doing that removes the potential for parallax error and helps to stop you spiralling down the whole "oh no, I've got crossover" nightmare. ( I've been there before myself
I've always shot with a 35 yard zero (crosshairs), but after thinking about it, if someone new to HFT asked me what they should zero to, my advice would be 25 yards.
If you're an experienced shot, I'd say go with what you're used to and don't change unless there's a really pressing reason to, but still check you're windage turret at the distance your parallaxed to - so like you say, if your crosshairs are zeroed on 35 yards, zero your rifle to shoot half a mildot high at 25 yards, rather than hitting the centre of the target at 35 yards. Then check your aimpoint zero's at all distances.