I'm a newcomer ( ish ) to FT but have shot HFT since it started, up to a couple of years ago.
I asked these same questions when I started FT.
Basically ALL the FT guys will advise you to range and dial and aim bang on for elevation ... just worry about wind.
I think it's just what you are used to. I'd shot so much HFT on 8 or 9x and aimed over/under that it was just natural to me.
I think it was Simon Ayers that advised me to range on very high mag ... 40 or 50x, and then turn down to 20x to take the shot. He's pretty good at this FT lark so I listened to him and did just that. It's fine. You get decent ranging accuracy at 40x and at 20x the wobble isn't too bad, but you get a decent view of a 40mm kill at 55 yards.
So I'd advise you to try that.
I get a bit panicky at the lane, and with messing about with specs, I'm concerned about time. So I chose to use a 35 yard zero and use mildots to aim over/under. I found that dead easy. I'm not saying dead easy to knock targets over ... I mean the method is dead easy. Easy and quick. I really haven't found any great problem with aiming over/under ... but remember I don't have any FT history, or success, to back up my claims.
If you can dial, I would take the top guy's advice and dial. If dialling is a problem for you then you can do it aiming over/under.
I'm sure Dave Ramshead, who is as good as it gets in HFT, also aims over/under in FT, and he's also very successful at that.
I actually shoot FT in a sort of FT/HFT hybrid. Again due to time and all the HFT I've shot, and the fact that I'm still not used to finding targets at 40x in a dense wood, and I was ok at ranging in HFT by eye, I'll look at a target in FT, then guess the range by eye, then turn the scope to that range, then look through the scope at the target. If it's a target that has a 40mm kill and is 45 yards or under I tend to do that on 20x and if, when I look through the scope on 20x, it's quite clear, I take the shot using the holdover/under for that range. If it's long range then I still turn the scope to where I think it should be but then look through the scope, turn it up to 40x, focus to range, and then back down to 20x and take the shot, again using holdover/under.
My sidewheel doesn't have distances ... just numbers of dots ... or part dots.
Please remember ... I'm just starting so know nowt.
If you can ... do it as the big boys say ... turn mag up ( 40x + ) ... focus and range ... dial distance ... aim bang on for elevation.
Regarding the sitting position and it not being as stable as HFT prone ...
Again ... listen to top FT shooters. When I started a couple of years ago I read some FT shooters ( I think Chris Cundey ... who is another top HFT shooter but also shoots A grade FT ) saying that you should give yourself a year to get your sitting position sorted. I thought what nonsense ... You sit down ... you get steady and then you just learn to hold the rifle steady. Again ... the top boys were right. Over the months you start to tweak your sitting position ... legs a bit different ... front hand a bit different ... rear elbow a bit different. After some time you start to reduce that initial wobble. You do have to accept that you probably, not for a long time, won't get the aim as steady as HFT prone, especially on higher mag than you'd shoot HFT. It does get steadier in time. You also learn to work with the breathing and releasing the shot on instinct, even with the wobble there.
The biggest problem, I found, is trigger control and release and follow through. That's easy to do in HFT when you are set up HFT prone and the cross hairs are dead steady. It's easy to squeeze through the second stage and release the shot and follow through when those cross hairs aren't moving. It's much harder trying to do that with the cross hairs dancing and trying not to 'snatch' the trigger.
Last edited by skires; 10th December 2015 at 07:38 AM.