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Old 15th May 2015, 08:57 AM
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Brian.Samson Brian.Samson is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Member of: Pontefract, Doncaster Airgun Range
Location: Doncaster
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Originally Posted by ellis d View Post
I disagree about the ally piston Brian...defintely less hold sensitive�� but stroke length is crucial to the individual,
The first time I shot my short stroked Tx I found it a bit too quick for my liking,not to mention controlling the power seemed a bit hit and miss, in the end I ended up with an alloy piston stroked inbetween a mk2 and a mk3 tx with mk2 internals, standard tx piston seal with o ring set just behind piston seal to control the grease moving forward and on to the piston seal,,,I've not touched the internals in over a year, power stayed stable ever since, springer's are a personal thing though and what works for one might be hell for some one else..all good fun though...and painfull at the same time����
I dunno Marc

You know what, I don't even know what hold sensitive means anymore? They're all hold sensitive in some way or another no matter what you do to them - so what does it mean and how do you measure it? I have no idea

Regarding ally pistons.. it's not what the piston is made of that matters - it could me made of mild steel, aluminium, magnesium alloy whatever.. it's the weight that matters and it's the balancing act with piston weight, stroke length, surge etc etc..

I've got an ally piston TX and a lightened steel piston TX. As it turns out, I had to add weight to the ally piston to make power and balance it. The steel piston TX has been reduced in weight, and when you weigh the two including rod, bearings, seal, top hats etc.. they weigh about the same. From memory I think the steel one is about 15g heavier than the ally one. They both shoot ok.

That's what I mean... you can get the same result from a steel piston as an ally one.. it's not what it's made of, it's what it weighs that's important. and it's easier to reduce the weight of a steel piston than it is to make a whole new piston out of another material - you could do either though.

I think the important thing to achieve with a springer is to get no lateral twisting motion. It's going to recoil whatever you do to it, but forwards and backwards recoil is ok - it's consistent and manageable.

If there's any twisting though - that's generally not consistent and not a good thing at all.

And that's kinda my idea now on tuning - if you've got a springer that has some twist, get that tuned out and go out and practice shooting it. Don't spend too long on dicking around with all the rest of it because the amount of time you spend on it won't buy you as many targets as spending the same amount of time and effort practicing.

Look at it another way.. No matter what you do to a springer, it's never going to be as dead to shoot as a Styer.. I'm pretty sure everyone would agree with that right?

Ok.. I think it's a pretty fair bet to say that in every competition I've ever shot - and every one you've shot too with a springer.. I bet we put in a better score than at least 1 Styer in the competition. Maybe not every one, but at least one and probably at least a dozen other PCP's too.

The reason for that isn't that you've sold your soul to the devil, what you've done is put the range time in.

That's my point... you can spend your life trying to make a springer shoot like a PCP or you can spend that time practicing. If you've got the time and money to do both - brilliant - do that. If you haven't pick one and get on with it. But.... if you pick the one where you're spending your life trying to make a springer shoot like a PCP, you won't be knocking over as many targets as the people that put the practice in and it'll drive you insane.
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