I've had two for years on two springers (97 and 77). Neither have ever moved an iota.
As said, a little fiddly to do elevation as you have to remove from the rifle, so do elevation first and completely ignore windage at first. What I do to save time is, first loosen off the rear locking/windage screws, then just tighten the clamp screws on the rail finger tight. It's fine for a couple of shots if using the recoil stud. Once I get it on for height on paper at ten yards (just shoot at a horizontal line) I move out to zero distance. When I get it within an inch for height at zero, I take it off, make sure the underneath locking screw is tight and mount it properly. Tighten up the locking screws and double check height.
The windage is if anything more fiddly as it takes some thinking to work out which way the screws will move the zero. Screwing one in pushes the mount base away, so effectively moves the scope (front or back as appropriate) toward the screw. Note that they act in pairs, so before you screw one in a little more, you have to loosen the other side the same amount. It's this that can mess with your head.
Final tip: small adjustments make big differences downrange, so a quarter turn at a time max, or you'll be chasing it all day!