Hello, my first post!
I am back to the hobby after a long break (using my two sons as a thin excuse
) things seem to have changed since the late 80s'...
I bought a new AA S200 (single piece stock) mainly for my 13 year old son but it certainly puts a smile on my face too!
After a tin of pellets I wasn't happy with the trigger. The first part of the movement was light,pointlessly long and very crunchy, then there was a bit where it felt scratchy and any movement was one way only - if you released the pressure and reapplied the trigger didn't go back to the first stage it stayed where it was. Then the release was quite stiff but it was crisp. I never used to touch the triggers on my old air rifles but this was really bad enough that I looked into what all those screws are for and whether this was common to this rifle.
After a relaxing trawl through the net with the iPad and a coffee I found these links:
The Timinder write up:
My favourite compilation of ideas and clear images is here: http://zonalslim.smfforfree.com/index.php?topic=1000.0
I decided that rather than take my brand new under warranty air gun back to the uber friendly shop and have it looked at by a friendly expert, I'd have a play with it myself
I decided I'd do a half way house trigger job and do everything suggested in the last two links but leave the power adjustment screw, mainspring and striker well alone.
This is what I did...
*** I am new to the hobby, I am NOT an expert, this is NOT an expert guide! ***
I followed the existing guides to safely remove the S200 action:
I needed to drift out the pins holding the trigger and trigger lever. To make this easier and lower the risk of scratching anything I made an MDF support with holes drilled to accommodate the pins etc. I found this made things a lot easier, I had to use an air line to keep everything clean and stop any MDF/dust contaminating the lubricated action. (The trigger lever has spacer washers either side - mine were so heavily greased they never left their position but I'd guess they would be easily lost or forgotten.)
As far as I can make out this is a big part of the problem, the face of trigger lever part that acts against the striker was as rough as a badgers backside.
Quarter of an hour with a dremel polishing wheel and it looked a lot better. Another time I'd definitely look at getting the striker out and polishing the opposing surface that this part acts against, but as Harry said: 'A man's got to know his limitations'.
The adjustment grub screws on the trigger were rounded and polished in a lathe (as per the Timinder pdf).
Finally I put a small washer on the aft most adjustment screw to stop the spring riding up the thread.
After putting the action back together I screwed the action back into the stock (leaving the air cylinder and barrel off) with the trigger feel as it would be in the rifle but completely safe, I spent about half an hour playing with all of the adjustment screws.
Other guides cover the adjustment very well and I just followed them. In the end I call this a success as I have a safe, smooth and predictable trigger which is miles better than it was before, now to leave it well alone for a long while
Any observations for the better informed would be welcome