Originally Posted by Tone
I have recently gone through a phase of sizing pellets, that was until I found a reduction of over 20 ft/s (over .5 ft/lb) between with the sized pellets compared with those strait out of the tin.
I can only put this down to the sized pellet skirt not blowing out against the barrel wall the same as the unsized one and therefore not creating such a good seal.
Has anyone else found the same thing happening?
I found a better way (for me at least) in a benchrest article in a back copy of Airgun World. Instead of pressing pellets through a sizer, sort them through a gauge. That way, you don't deform them and they don't lose velocity. If you just want to plink, then shoot them straight from the tin and you don't get caught up in the loop of having to reset your zero to accommodate sized or unsized pellets. That's why I only do this with weighed pellets for that special occasion ...
You make the gauge from a BIC Cristal stick pen (I think it only works with the BIC) - it must be the see-through tube type though. Strip out all the bits, including the end cap, which just leaves you with the tube. The hole down most of it's length is the right size to take a .177 pellet, except for a tapered part near the pointy end - that's your gauge. Take a pellet and first check the skirt is round, then insert it into the tube and let it gently slide down (rather than drop down) inside until it sticks in the tapered part. I do mine skirt first, but the choice is yours. Make a mark on the tube with a fine point marker in line with the skirt. Tip the pellet out by knocking the tube on a pad of paper or magazine. I use a Post-it note pad. NOTE - the steeper the angle of the tube when you insert the pellet, the harder you will have to knock to get it out! Put the "gauged" pellet into a container - I use an old plastic ice cube tray for segregating both weighed and gauged pellets. Now repeat with the next pellet. If it sticks at a different place then make another mark on the tube with your marker. TIP - make successive marks in a spiral around the tube so that your view of the pellet is not cluttered. Don't get carried away with too many marks - I have only 4 on mine and they are about 1 mm apart. After you've sorted a few dozen in theory you should have all the graduations you should need. Give each graduation mark a number for clarity and that's it - you've got your gauge.
If you use a wide range of pellets you may need to make more than 1 gauge. In the past I used mainly AA Diabolos and I found they varied within 4 different skirt sizes - hence my 4 graduations. Now I shoot mostly JSB Exacts (including Express) and find they mostly fall into only 2 sizes - per tin that is.
All I can say is, this works for me and I pass this on for what it's worth.