optical zero for Steyrs
Been down this road.
If you are not going down the adjustable rail road, or the adjustable rings road, you will have to go down the shimming road. Not so bad if you end up epoxy bedding the rings after you find your optimum height and tilt.
zero'ing at 55 yards means zeroing at a fraction over 16 yards so that saves needing 55 yards to set up in.
Raising the front of the scope means the back comes back more into line with your eye at the rear and the cheek height prolem is eased a little. Changing adjustable butt for a better hyead position can help this too. Remember the head takes a different position for each position we use.
I used a cheap set of Leapers high weavers on the standard Steyr rail to discover the tilt required at first. cheap disposable mounts. I then discovered the amount of tilt required by clamping the rifle and firing at 16 yards, finding the number of clicks it needed to converge on POI and voila you have the number of MOA you need to either shim up the front. After shimming bedding set mounts is important so the tube is not bent or crimped. Adjustables are the way to go for international competition as environment/altitude can change what tilt you may need between locations and quick adjust as well as quick release makes sense. Whatever you end up using make sure its robust.
About 3 in is about right for the Steyrs, and the original Steyr rail can be used quite happily to achieve that. I also still use the Steyr handrail, although on occasion wish it was about 10mm deeper, but not a drawback at all when shifting to the forced positions.
Just my opinion, but with limited revolution adjustment available, mechanical centre is probably more important than optical centre so you have a good range to work within, rather than optical centre and running close to the end of adjustment.......causing mechanism problems on really close shots etc etc.
Last edited by greyskullnz; 31st December 2013 at 07:55 PM.