Originally Posted by Gerry
Simple , put a sign at the peg warning that the target is reduced from the rear ....
Maybe that way there is no problem ...
I actually started posting earlier saying that people that already had targets with reducers at the rear could do as you suggested and have a home made cheap sign at the peg saying 'R' for reducer.
I didn't post it in the end as I think it still has issues. On a shot up rear plate situation ... people could still see the 40mm original ring at the front but could not see what size reducer .. even though they now know it's a reduced kill because of the 'R' sign. So you still may not know if it's a 15mm or 20mm or 35mm. So what next? Do you put on your sign at the peg that it's 15mm or 20mm etc ... but that then screws up part of the game. It's part of the game or skill having to figure out what size kill it is at certain ranges. Course setters may use a 20mm at 30 yards and hope it may confuse some shooters into thinking it is a 25mm at 35 yards. Similarly a 35mm at 45 may look like a 25mm at 40 or even 35. So telling people what the kill size is could take some of the skill/fun away.
It's probably no real difference all this to say a pure 15mm kill ( just a 15mm hole and no reducing plates ) on a target at about 13 yards that has been heavily shot up. Plenty of misses in all areas will leave an enlarged grey blob that may look like a larger kill through a blurred picture at that range. We can't play painting targets every 5 shots so it's do what we've always done ... especially now Sparky has said there is no rule eliminating rear plates ... you just squint, tug on the string a bit etc. Spreading them over the course like has been mentioned will also help so hopefully most are not too disadvantaged. At the end of the day I suppose we are trying to hit in the centre of the kill anyway so if in doubt shoot them as 15mm.